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Intellivision Capacitor Replacement Guide

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Intellivision Model 2609 power supply board test points (Mattel)
Mattel's layout of the model 2609 power supply board: C1 (10,000 µF) top right, C3 (2200 µF) top left, C2 (100 µF) in the centre, each with its positive terminal marked.

Capacitor values for the original Intellivision Master Component, model 2609. Mattel published a full parts list for both boards: the power supply board list is in the Subassembly Service Manual and the logic board list in the Service Manual, and the schematics in both manuals agree with them.[1][2] The large filter capacitors are on the power supply board. Gordon Jennings named "the two larger capacitors" and the two regulators as the usual causes of power supply board faults.[3] See Capacitor Failure Symptoms for what a failing electrolytic looks like, and the Intellivision Troubleshooting Guide for the voltage checks.

Visual inspection

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Mattel's inspection list for the power supply board asks for:[4]

  • evidence of charring, swelling, arcing or shorting on components;
  • broken or peeling circuit traces;
  • bent, broken or missing connector pins;
  • regulator heatsinks loose on U1 or U2;
  • the adhesive holding capacitors C1 and C2 in place coming away from the board.

The same list for the logic board covers charring, swelling, arcing and shorting, which applies to its small electrolytics.[4]

Power supply board capacitors

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Model 2609 power supply board (2609-9539)
Ref Value Rating Type Mattel P/N Position on the schematic
C1 10,000 µF 16 V Electrolytic 0085-0005 Reservoir after CR1 and CR2; feeds the +5 V regulator U1 and, through R2, the unregulated +5.65 V output
C2 100 µF 16 V Electrolytic 0085-0004 Reservoir for the −2.1 V supply after CR3 and CR4; positive terminal to ground
C3 2200 µF 25 V Electrolytic 0085-0006 Reservoir after the bridge CR5–CR8; feeds the +12 V regulator U2 and the unregulated +16 V output
C4–C10 0.1 µF 25 V Not stated 0085-1510 C4 at the +5 V output, C5 at the −2.1 V output, C6 at the +12 V output, C7 and C8 from the two ends of the low-voltage winding to ground, C9 and C10 from the two bridge inputs to ground
C11, C12 0.22 µF 25 V Not stated 0085-1410 C11 at the input of U2, C12 at the input of U1

Values, ratings, types and part numbers are from Mattel's power supply board parts list; positions are read from the schematic printed with it.[1][5] The service manual's copy of the schematic prints the same values.[6] The regulators are a μA7805 (U1) and an LM340T12 (U2).[1]

The three electrolytics are the ones to replace. Their ratings sit comfortably above the voltages Mattel expects across them: the +16 V supply on C3 should read 18 V ± 1.25 V unloaded, and the unregulated output from C1 reads at least 12 V with the boards disconnected.[7][8] Fit replacements of the same capacitance and at least the same voltage rating.

Logic board capacitors

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Model 2609 logic board (2609-9169), polarised capacitors
Ref Value Rating Mattel P/N Position on the schematic
C26 1.0 µF 20 V, ±20% 0085-0007 Reset circuit, with R15 (10 kΩ) to +5 V and the reset switch S1
C27 10 µF 20 V, ±20% 0085-0008 +12 V input from the ribbon cable (P3 pin 2)
C28 10 µF 20 V, ±20% 0085-0008 +5 V input from the ribbon cable (P3 pin 1)
C30 10 µF 20 V, ±20% 0085-0008 −2.1 V input from the ribbon cable (P3 pin 5); positive terminal to ground
C40 47 µF 16 V, −10/+50% 0085-0009 RF modulator supply, fed from +12 V through R22 (180 Ω)

Values and part numbers are from the logic board parts list; positions are from the logic board schematic (Figure 7-2), which draws all five with a polarity mark.[2][6] The parts list does not say whether they are aluminium electrolytic or tantalum. Read the part on your own board before ordering, and record what you find.

The other logic board capacitors are small non-polarised parts: C1 (20 pF, at the crystal), the trimmer C2, 0.1 µF decoupling capacitors, C31 (680 pF), C33 (220 pF) and C34–C39 (0.01 µF, on the hand controller lines).[2][6] The trimmer C2 sets the colour clock; leave it alone unless the colours are wrong, and then set it with a frequency counter as described in the Intellivision Troubleshooting Guide.[9]

Replacement procedure

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Power supply board

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  1. Unplug the console. Jennings then switches it ON with the cord out to drain stored charge;[3] confirm with a meter that C1 and C3 are discharged.
  2. Open the console and remove the hand controller tray (six screws).[10]
  3. Unplug the 5-pin ribbon connector, the 2-pin connector and the 5-pin transformer connector from the power supply board, remove its two screws and lift it out. Keep the fibre insulator (or both insulators, where two are fitted) that sits under it.[10]
  4. Note the polarity of each electrolytic before removing it. C2 is fitted with its positive terminal to ground, the opposite way round to C1 and C3.[5]
  5. Desolder and replace C1, C2 and C3. Check that the new C1 fits the space beside the heatsinks, and secure C1 and C2 with adhesive as the originals were.[4]
  6. Refit the board on its insulator. Before reconnecting the logic board, switch on and check the supplies at the test points with the ribbon cable and 2-pin plug disconnected (Mattel's procedure 1.5): +5 V at TP2, +12 V at TP3, at least 16 V at TP4, −2.1 V at TP5, and at least 12 V at the +5.65 V pin.[8]
  7. Reconnect the logic board and check TP6 again: it should now read 5.45–5.85 V.[8]

Logic board

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The logic board's polarised capacitors are inside its soldered shield. Lift the board out, then unsolder the shield; Jennings counts twelve joints on each half.[3] Mattel warns that excess solder left from this can short the board's components and traces.[4] C30 is fitted positive to ground. Resolder the shield securely afterwards, since a loose shield degrades the picture.[11]

Post-recap checks

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Supplies after replacement (against TP1)
Test point Supply Expect
TP2 +5 V 4.85–5.15 V
TP3 +12 V 11.64–12.36 V
TP4 +16 V unregulated At least 16 V
TP5 −2.1 V −1.95 to −2.25 V (−3.3 V on units below serial 113899)
TP6 +5.65 V unregulated 5.45–5.85 V with the logic board connected

Limits from the subassembly manual's procedure 1.5 and the service manual's power supply test.[8][7] Then run the MTE-201 test cartridge, or a game, through to the end.[12]

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  • Temperature-controlled soldering iron and desoldering braid or pump; Mattel recommends a low-wattage (25–40 W) grounded-tip iron for its boards.[4]
  • A digital multimeter for the test point voltages.[8]
  • Replacement electrolytics: 10,000 µF 16 V, 100 µF 16 V and 2200 µF 25 V for the power supply board; for the logic board, the values in the table above, after checking the type fitted.
  • Adhesive to secure the new C1 and C2 as the originals were.

See also Recommended Tools.

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References

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  1. ↑ 1.0 1.1 1.2 Mattel Electronics, Subassembly Service Manual, Intellivision model 2609, parts list, p. 18: power supply board 2609-9539; C1 10,000 µF 16 V electrolytic (0085-0005); C2 100 µF 16 V electrolytic (0085-0004); C3 2200 µF 25 V electrolytic (0085-0006); C4–C10 0.1 µF 25 V (0085-1510); C11, C12 0.22 µF 25 V (0085-1410); U1 μA7805; U2 LM340T12. File:Mattel Intellivision Subassembly Service Manual Model 2609.pdf.
  2. ↑ 2.0 2.1 2.2 Mattel Electronics, Service Manual, Intellivision model 2609, logic board parts list, pp. 6-7 and 6-8 (PDF pp. 41–42): C1 20 pF; C2 variable; 0.1 µF 25 V at C3, C4, C6–C21, C23–C25, C29, C32; C26 1.0 µF 20 V (0085-0007); C27, C28, C30 10 µF 20 V (0085-0008); C31 680 pF; C33 220 pF; C34–C39 0.01 µF; C40 47 µF 16 V (0085-0009). File:Mattel Intellivision Service Manual Model 2609.pdf.
  3. ↑ 3.0 3.1 3.2 Gordon Jennings, Repairing Your Home Video Game, Datamost, 1984, ISBN 0-88190-277-2: switching the unit on with the cord unplugged to drain stored voltage, p. 91; regulators and "the two larger capacitors" as the usual power supply board faults, p. 96; twelve solder joints on each logic board cover, p. 97. Scan at the Internet Archive, item book_repairing_your_home_video_game.
  4. ↑ 4.0 4.1 4.2 4.3 4.4 Mattel Electronics, Service Manual, model 2609, section 4, pp. 4-5 to 4-7 (PDF pp. 30–32): board inspection including the adhesive on C1 and C2, unsoldering the logic board shields, printed circuit board repair with a 25 to 40 W grounded-tip iron. File:Mattel Intellivision Service Manual Model 2609.pdf.
  5. ↑ 5.0 5.1 Mattel Electronics, Subassembly Service Manual, model 2609, "Power Supply Board Repair", schematic, p. 17, and Figure 5, p. 8. Also uploaded as File:Intellivision Model 2609 power supply board schematic (Mattel).png. File:Mattel Intellivision Subassembly Service Manual Model 2609.pdf.
  6. ↑ 6.0 6.1 6.2 Mattel Electronics, Service Manual, model 2609, section 7: logic board schematic, Figure 7-2 (PDF p. 45), and power supply board schematic (PDF p. 47). File:Mattel Intellivision Service Manual Model 2609.pdf.
  7. ↑ 7.0 7.1 Mattel Electronics, Service Manual, model 2609, section 2-4, power supply test, p. 2-7 (PDF p. 17). File:Mattel Intellivision Service Manual Model 2609.pdf.
  8. ↑ 8.0 8.1 8.2 8.3 8.4 Mattel Electronics, Subassembly Service Manual, model 2609, section III, procedure 1.5 (a) to (l), pp. 6–8. File:Mattel Intellivision Subassembly Service Manual Model 2609.pdf.
  9. ↑ Mattel Electronics, Service Manual, model 2609, troubleshooting guide, p. 2-13 (PDF p. 23): set the colour clock with C2. File:Mattel Intellivision Service Manual Model 2609.pdf.
  10. ↑ 10.0 10.1 Mattel Electronics, Subassembly Service Manual, model 2609, section IV, "Power Supply Board Replacement", p. 12, including the safety note on the fibre insulators. File:Mattel Intellivision Subassembly Service Manual Model 2609.pdf.
  11. ↑ Steven A. Orth, "Replacing an Intellivision RF Modulator", INTV Funhouse, updated 20 November 2017 (retrieved 2026-10-19): picture degraded when the metal case around the logic board is not closed securely.
  12. ↑ Mattel Electronics, Subassembly Service Manual, model 2609, section I, "Diagnostic Routine", pp. 2–4. File:Mattel Intellivision Subassembly Service Manual Model 2609.pdf.


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