Intellivision II Capacitor Replacement Guide

Capacitors in the Intellivision II, model 5872. Mattel's service manual gives the full logic board parts list, which has a single electrolytic capacitor. The power supply board, where most of the console's electrolytics are, appears in that list only as a complete assembly (part 5872-9539), and the manual has no schematic or parts list for it.[1] Mattel published no values for the power supply board capacitors. What the manual does show is below, with a method for recording your own board before replacing anything. See Capacitor Failure Symptoms for the signs of a failed capacitor.
Logic board
[edit | edit source]| Ref | Value | Rating | Type | Mattel P/N | Position on the schematic |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| C19 | 4.7 µF | 6.3 V | Electrolytic | 0085-0031 | Reset circuit, with R9 (10 kΩ) to +5 V, diode CR3 and the reset switch S1 |
Value, rating, type and part number from the parts list; position from the schematic.[1][2]
The other logic board capacitors in Mattel's list are not electrolytics:[1]
| Ref | Value | Mattel P/N |
|---|---|---|
| C1–C5, C7–C11, C13–C15, C18, C30, C33, C35, C36 | 0.1 µF 25 V | 0085-1510 |
| C16 | 20 pF 15 V NPO | 0085-0720 |
| C17 | Variable, 5–50 pF | 0099-0730 |
| C20 | 220 pF 15 V | 0085-0028 |
C17 trims the master clock; set it only with a frequency counter, to 3.579545 MHz ± 100 Hz at U10 pin 15.[3] Mattel's power supply flowchart also names C38 and C39, with the AC jack and fuse F1, on the path from the AC input to the power supply board; neither appears in the parts list, so read them from the board.[4][1]
Power supply board
[edit | edit source]Mattel describes the board as a switching regulator: it rectifies the AC from the wall transformer and varies the duty cycle of a square wave to keep its outputs steady as the load changes. It also senses the ON/OFF/RESET button.[5] Its outputs and the control line are measured at the test points on its connector strip (see the table below).[4]
Mattel's Figure 6 drawing shows a large cylindrical part standing at the right-hand end of the board, two upright cylinders beside the heatsinked component, several smaller cylindrical parts towards the left and two wound parts at the front, beside the connector.[4] The drawing carries no reference designators or values. Treat it as a guide to where parts sit, and identify each one on the board itself.
Recording your board
[edit | edit source]Before removing anything:
- Photograph both sides of the board.
- For each electrolytic, write down the reference designator printed on the board (if any), the capacitance, the voltage rating, the temperature rating and which side carries the negative stripe.
- Note the physical size, especially height, so the replacements fit under the console's top housing.
- Keep the record with the console.
Replace each part with the same capacitance and the same or a higher voltage rating. TP8 reads about +21 V DC with the console off, so part of the board runs at that voltage or more.[4] Never fit a replacement rated at or below the voltage you measure across the original's position.
Replacement procedure
[edit | edit source]- Unplug the AC adapter and open the console as described in the maintenance guide.
- Remove the three Phillips screws that hold the power supply board to the standoffs on the logic board and lift it straight up off its 10-pin connector.[6]
- Record the board as above, then replace the capacitors one at a time, checking polarity against your notes for each.
- Refit the board, plug in a known-good adapter and check the test points below before running a game.
For C19 on the logic board, take the logic board out (four screws; lift it by the cartridge connector so the channel switch clears its opening) and observe its polarity on removal.[6]
Post-recap checks
[edit | edit source]| Test point | Expected |
|---|---|
| TP1 to TP2 | 16–20 V AC |
| TP4 | −2.10 to −2.40 V DC |
| TP5 | +5.45 to +5.95 V DC |
| TP6 | +11.5 to +12.5 V DC |
| TP7 | +4.85 to +5.15 V DC |
| TP8 | About +21 V DC off, +5 V DC on, 0 V with reset pressed |
From Mattel's Figure 6 and troubleshooting flowchart. Press and release reset within 2 seconds before reading TP8 in the on state.[4]
Related pages
[edit | edit source]- Intellivision II
- Intellivision II General Maintenance
- Intellivision II Troubleshooting Guide
- Intellivision II Service Manual
- Intellivision Capacitor Replacement Guide
- Capacitor Failure Symptoms
References
[edit | edit source]- ↑ 1.0 1.1 1.2 1.3 Mattel Electronics, Service Manual, model 5872, parts list, pp. 21 and 23: logic board capacitors C1–C20, C30, C33, C35, C36; power supply board with parts, 5872-9539. File:Mattel Intellivision II Service Manual Model 5872.pdf.
- ↑ Mattel Electronics, Service Manual, model 5872, Figure 8, schematic diagram, p. 25 (PDF p. 26): C19 4.7 µF with R9 10 kΩ, CR3 and S1. File:Mattel Intellivision II Service Manual Model 5872.pdf.
- ↑ Mattel Electronics, Service Manual, model 5872, "Adjustments", p. 20: master clock adjustment with C17. File:Mattel Intellivision II Service Manual Model 5872.pdf.
- ↑ 4.0 4.1 4.2 4.3 4.4 Mattel Electronics, Service Manual, model 5872, troubleshooting flowchart, pp. 12–13 (including the check of the AC jack, C38, C39 and F1), and Figure 6, p. 19. File:Mattel Intellivision II Service Manual Model 5872.pdf.
- ↑ Mattel Electronics, Service Manual, Intellivision II model 5872, "System Description and Operation", pp. 5–6: switching regulator power supply board, senses the ON/OFF/RESET switch, 10-pin connection to the logic board. File:Mattel Intellivision II Service Manual Model 5872.pdf.
- ↑ 6.0 6.1 Mattel Electronics, Service Manual, model 5872, "Disassembly Procedure", p. 9. File:Mattel Intellivision II Service Manual Model 5872.pdf.