Tandy 1000 Troubleshooting Guide

Fault-finding on the original Tandy 1000 (catalogue number 25-1000) starts at the 54 W power supply and the start-up self-test. Tandy's 1985 service manual gives the self-test sequence and its messages, a power supply test procedure and a table of collector waveforms for shorted parts; owners on the Vintage Computer Federation forum have added the faults they meet now.[1]
Tandy tells technicians to test the supply through an isolation transformer of at least 500 VA, because the primary side carries dangerous voltages. The reservoir capacitor C4 holds about 170 V DC. |
Quick reference
[edit | edit source]| Symptom | Likely cause | Action |
|---|---|---|
| Nothing at all, fan silent | Fuse F1 (3.15 A) open, or supply failed | Check F1. If it has blown, check bridge D1, Q1 and D4 for shorts before fitting a new fuse.[2] |
| Machine starts, floppy drives dead and silent | No +12 V reaching the drives | Measure +12 V at the drive connector; inspect the joints on the supply's drive power connector.[4] |
| Supply starts, then shuts down | Over-voltage crowbar tripping | Check D10, R16 and photothyristor PHC2.[2] |
| Blank screen and a steady tone from the speaker | BIOS not running, so the sound chip has not been silenced | Check supply rails, clocks, reset, ROM and the data bus.[5] |
| Memory count shows only 128K with a memory card fitted | DMA refresh not working | Check the DMA controller on the memory card.[6] |
| Drive light on and motor running from power-on | Drive cable fitted backwards | Reverse the cable at the board or drive.[5] |
| Self-test passes, then no boot | Floppy controller or DMA fault | Check the 8272 and FDC9216 circuit and the drive cable.[6] |
Start-up self-test
[edit | edit source]At power-on or reset the 8088 fetches its first instruction from the ROM at U9, so much of the main board has to work before anything appears. The BIOS then sets up the video circuits, which should show a blank screen with a cursor in the home position, silences the sound chip, and resets the floppy controller.[6] Tandy's notes on reading the result:[6]
- A stable display means the 6845 has been programmed and the ROM can be read, so the memory and I/O buses are basically working.
- The BIOS tests a 180h-byte area of video and system RAM at BBE80 to BBFFF for its stack. A fault produces
VID ADDR: BASE: BBE8 OFF: xxxxHandDATA FAULT: WRITTEN xxxx READ: xxxx. An offset at the top of the range (BFFFE) means no RAM is responding at all. A bad bit in the low (even) byte corrupts characters; a bad bit in the high (odd) byte shows as blinking or colour changes. FAULTY WRITE AND READ OF 8253 CHANNEL 2 REGpoints at the 8253 timer (U114).MEMORY SIZE = xxx Kreports the RAM found. If it shows only the base 128K, the most probable fault is the DMA refresh; any other short count means faulty memory.FAULTY WRITE AND READ OF 8259 MASK REGpoints at the 8259A interrupt controller (U63).- The full memory test then lists up to 15 errors, with the data written, the data read and the address. It makes one pass and stops if it finds an error.
- If every test passes and the machine still does not boot, the manual names the floppy controller or the DMA subsystem.
IC positions are from the main logic parts list.[7]
No display, no start
[edit | edit source]Clocks and reset
[edit | edit source]All system timing comes from a 28.63636 MHz oscillator. U39 (74F161) divides it, and its 14.31818 MHz output clocks both the video array and the 8284A clock generator (U45). The 8284A divides by three to give the 8088 its 4.77 MHz clock.[8] Check each frequency with an oscilloscope or frequency counter. One forum owner found 12 MHz where 14.3 MHz should have been; the eventual cause was a track cut when a drive fell onto the board.[5]
The reset signals start at the 8284A, which synchronises the RES* input. RES* comes from capacitor C26 (10 µF), which the reset button or diode CR6 discharges.[8] If the machine behaves differently each time it is reset, check RES* at U45 as well as the clock.
Steady tone from the speaker
[edit | edit source]A continuous noise from the speaker with no picture means the BIOS has not run far enough to silence the SN76496.[5] Work back from the supply rails to the clocks, reset and ROM. Many chips are socketed, including the 8088, 8259A, 6845, video array, gate array, ROM, DRAMs and 74LS245 transceivers, so known good parts can be swapped in.[7]
Memory faults
[edit | edit source]The sixteen 64K DRAMs (150 ns) on the main board are socketed.[7] One owner with start-up memory errors found the fault by replacing the motherboard DRAMs one at a time; the memory card on that machine used HM50256 chips and the main board 4264-15s.[4] Remember that the expansion memory depends on the DMA controller on the memory card for refresh, so a dead DMA chip makes all of the expansion memory disappear.[6]
Power supply faults
[edit | edit source]Test set-up
[edit | edit source]Tandy's bench set-up uses an isolation transformer, a 0-140 V variable transformer, two digital meters, an oscilloscope with x10 and x100 probes, and a load board.[2] Never run the supply without a load; Tandy warns that this causes damaging oscillation.
| Output | Minimum load | Resistor | Rating | Maximum load | Resistor | Rating |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| +5 V | 2.0 A | 2.5 ohms | 30 W | 7.5 A | 0.67 ohms | 50 W |
| +12 V | 0.2 A | 60 ohms | 5 W | 1.25 A | 9.6 ohms | 30 W |
| -12 V | none | - | - | 0.1 A | 120 ohms | 30 W |
With the minimum load connected, bring the input up slowly on the variable transformer. The supply should start at about 40-60 V AC and regulate by 100 V AC.[2]
No output
[edit | edit source]Tandy's sequence:[2]
- Check fuse F1. If it has blown, replace it, but do not apply power until the cause is found.
- Check the bridge D1, the switching transistor Q1 (2SC2938) and the catch diode D4 for shorted junctions.
- With the loads disconnected, check the outputs with an ohmmeter for shorted rectifiers or capacitors.
- Check the over-voltage protection: raise the input from 0 V while watching +5 V. If it appears and then drops back to 0 V, check D10, R16 and PHC2.
- Look at the collector and base waveforms of Q1 with a x100 probe and compare them with Figures 18 to 22.
| Waveform | Shorted parts to check |
|---|---|
| Figure 18 | C11, C12, C14, C16, C17, C18, C19, IC1-3, "IC21-3" (as printed), R15 |
| Figure 19 | D7, D8, transformer T1 windings 11-12 and 7-8 |
| Figures 20 to 22 | D9, transformer T1 winding 9, 10-13 |
The table is reproduced as printed. The manual's text says Figures 18 and 19 are the normal collector and base waveforms and that Figures 20 to 22 show the shorted cases, while the table also lists Figures 18 and 19 against shorted parts, so compare a suspect waveform with all five figures.[2] Q1 and Q2 are listed as 2SC2938 and 2SD1207 in the parts list.[9]
+12 V missing
[edit | edit source]A dead +12 V output stops the drive motors while the rest of the machine runs, because the main board uses little +12 V.[5] One owner found the +12 V pin of the drive power connector on the supply board cracked free of its solder.[4] Another, describing a Tandy 1000 with dead drives, found the +12 V rail itself dead, and a third traced the same symptom to bad solder joints in the supply.[10] On this supply +12 V comes from its own transformer winding through rectifier D7, reservoir capacitors C11 and C12 and regulator IC1, with C13 on the output.[11]
Adjustment after repair
[edit | edit source]Set the input to 120 V AC at maximum load and adjust VR1 for 5.05 V on the +5 V output. Then check the supply at 105 V and 135 V input, at maximum and minimum load, and sweep the input between 105 and 135 V while watching for instability.[2] The limits are in the General Maintenance guide.
Floppy drive faults
[edit | edit source]- Drive light on and motor running from power-on: the cable is on backwards.[5]
- Both drive lights on and neither spinning: also a reversed cable, at the other end.[5]
- Drives respond but motors do not turn: check +12 V first, then the drives themselves.[12]
- The drives are set by jumpers and the cable has no twist; a PC-style twisted cable does not work.[12][13]
For drive mechanics and head cleaning, see Floppy Drive Repair.
Hard disk controllers
[edit | edit source]The FAQ gives BIOS 01.01.00 as the version needed for most hard disk controllers on the original 1000.[14] A 2026 forum write-up shows a DMA mode setting in BIOS 1.00 that corrupts data with Tandy's Xebec-based controller; other owners have run hard drives on 1.00 with other controllers.[15] The controller also needs the DMA controller on a memory card.[16]
Related pages
[edit | edit source]- Tandy 1000
- Tandy 1000 General Maintenance
- Tandy 1000 Capacitor Replacement Guide
- Tandy 1000 Documentation
- Capacitor Failure Symptoms
- Floppy Drive Repair
References
[edit | edit source]- ↑ Radio Shack, Service Manual: Tandy 1000 Computer, catalogue no. 25-1000, Tandy Corporation, 1985, hosted as File:Tandy 1000 Service Manual (25-1000, 1985).pdf.
- ↑ 2.0 2.1 2.2 2.3 2.4 2.5 2.6 2.7 Tandy 1000 Service Manual (25-1000), "Troubleshooting the 54W Power Supply", pp. 80-84, Tables 1-3 and Figures 17-22.
- ↑ Tandy 1000 Service Manual (25-1000), Section 7 "54 Watt Power Supply", pp. 77-79.
- ↑ 4.0 4.1 4.2 "Tandy 1000, Power supply issues, I think? Also, what is this board?", Vintage Computer Federation forum, July-August 2018, thread. Posts by psquare75, 27 July and 7 August 2018.
- ↑ 5.0 5.1 5.2 5.3 5.4 5.5 5.6 "Original Tandy 1000 no boot", Vintage Computer Federation forum, 2019-2020, thread. Posts by keenerb (21 September 2019) on the unmuted sound chip; blackepyon (25 November 2019) on the U39 clock chain; falter (25 November 2019, 13 October 2020) on the wrong frequency and the cut track; Eudimorphodon (20 October 2020) on a reversed drive cable; vwestlife (1 October 2019, 13 October 2020) on Tandy's cable.
- ↑ 6.0 6.1 6.2 6.3 6.4 Tandy 1000 Service Manual (25-1000), "Troubleshooting the Main Logic Board", pp. 75-76.
- ↑ 7.0 7.1 7.2 Tandy 1000 Service Manual (25-1000), Main Logic parts list, pp. 93-98.
- ↑ 8.0 8.1 Tandy 1000 Service Manual (25-1000), Section 6 "Theory of Operation", pp. 19-20.
- ↑ Tandy 1000 Service Manual (25-1000), 54 W supply parts list, pp. 100-101.
- ↑ "Tandy 1000 model 25-1002", Vintage Computer Federation forum, January 2024, thread. Posts by alank2 and almoerman, 8 January 2024.
- ↑ Tandy 1000 Service Manual (25-1000), power supply schematic, p. 139.
- ↑ 12.0 12.1 "Tandy 1000 floppy drive problems", Vintage Computer Federation forum, June 2022, thread. Posts by Eudimorphodon and alank2, 16 June 2022; Thatguyagain, 22 June 2022 (+12 V steady, fault in the drives' own boards).
- ↑ "Tandy 1000", Wikipedia (retrieved 2026-10-21). Section "Tandy 1000".
- ↑ Jeff Hayes, "Tandy 1000-series FAQ", version 2.52, 25 October 2005, TVDog's Tandy 1000 archive (retrieved 2026-10-21). Section III.E.2.
- ↑ "Upgrading the Tandy 1000 BIOS ROM to v1.01", Vintage Computer Federation forum, March 2026, thread. Posts by GloriousCow and vwestlife, 24-26 March 2026.
- ↑ Hayes, "Tandy 1000-series FAQ" (2005), section II.A.1.