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Philips Odyssey 2100 General Maintenance

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Philips Odyssey 2100 main board
Main board of a Philips Odyssey 2100. The regulator IC-4 and transistor Q1 are at top left, the 1000 µF capacitor C1 lies on its side at left, IC-1 (MM57186N) is in its socket, and the pink channel coils marked CH4 FREQ ADJUST and CH3 FREQ ADJUST are at bottom right.

The Philips Odyssey 2100 (type G7513) was made in 1978 and runs from a plug-in mains adaptor. Philips's service manual CS43618 gives three adjustments: the oscillators for channels E3 and E4, the 5.5 MHz sound oscillator and the 4.43 MHz colour oscillator.[1][2] The rest of the routine work is on the adaptor and its plug and socket, the two controllers and their cables, and the case. Faults are covered on Philips Odyssey 2100 Troubleshooting Guide and the three electrolytic capacitors on Philips Odyssey 2100 Capacitor Replacement Guide.

Opening the console

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Philips gives no disassembly procedure.[1] An owner describes it:

  1. Unplug the adaptor. Turn the console upside down.
  2. Turn the central fixing screw to the left (anticlockwise) and lift off the bottom case.[3][4]
  3. The board, the controller cables, the aerial cable and the adaptor socket stay in the top case. The board is small and is screwed into one corner, with the regulator on a metal bracket.[3][5]

The board legends do not match the service manual's designators: the board has Q1 for TS1, X'TAL 1 for KT1, and L2 and L3 for the channel coils S2 and S3. Use the board layout in the service manual, or the legends next to the adjusters (SOUND FREQ ADJUST, CH4 FREQ ADJUST, CH3 FREQ ADJUST), to find parts.[6][7]

Adaptor and power input

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  • The console has no internal mains supply. The adaptor U1 (Philips 12NC 4822 691 10242) contains a 220 V transformer and a bridge rectifier, and the schematic marks 24 V DC at the console's input socket BU1, terminal A positive and B negative.[7] The adaptor is a sealed mains unit; treat its case and lead as mains equipment and replace a damaged one.
  • The adaptor in the owner's photographs is model FW 8009, made in Germany, rated 220 V 50 Hz 6 VA in and 18.6 V DC 120 mA out, with a 3.5 mm jack plug.[8][3] Do not substitute a regulated supply of a different voltage without measuring what the console's own adaptor delivers; the input capacitor C1 is rated 25 V.[7]
  • The jack socket BU1 and the plug PL1 are listed as spare parts in the service manual (BU1 5322 267 30178; PL1 5322 264 34025 with 5322 268 44064).[7] A plug that has to be wiggled to make the console work points to worn socket contacts or a broken lead at the plug.
  • The schematic shows no power switch between the adaptor socket and the regulator, and the leaflet's list of controls has none. The console runs whenever the adaptor is plugged in and switched on at the wall.[7][9]

Controllers

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Controller parts and connections (service manual CS43618, p. 3)
Controller Potentiometer 12NC Button Board connector IC1 input
Right, green R25 4822 101 20502 SK7, reset RIGHT: R1 wiper, R3 button, R4 -12 V Wiper to pin 1 through R23 (2.2 kΩ); button to pin 23
Left, blue R26, with a contact at one end of its track 4822 101 20503 SK8, game select LEFT: L1 wiper, L2 end contact, L3 button, L4 -12 V Wiper to pin 2 through R24 (2.2 kΩ); button to pin 24

[7]

  • Each controller connects to a four-way connector on the board. The schematic shows -12 V fed out to each controller (wires R4 and L4), the potentiometer wiper returning on R1 or L1, and the button on R3 or L3.[7]
  • Wire L2 carries the right wiper to the contact at the end of R26's track. With the blue knob turned fully left the left knob is switched out and the green knob works the play, which is how the one-player variants are set up.[7][9]
  • The wiper voltage at IC1 pins 1 and 2 runs between about -1 V and -11 V as the knob turns.[7] A bat that jumps or jitters as the knob turns points to a worn potentiometer track; one that does not move at all points to the wiring or the 2.2 kΩ resistors R23 and R24.
  • If the left knob seems to do nothing, check that it is not turned fully left, the one-player position.[9]
  • The controller cables are fixed to the console.[3] Check them for breaks where they leave the case, since the controllers are lifted out of their recesses to play.

Service adjustments

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All three adjustments are on the main board.[1][6] Use a plastic trimming tool on the coil cores and on C13.

Channels E3 and E4

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  1. Connect the console to a television and switch both on.
  2. Set both to channel E3. Adjust S3 (marked CH3 FREQ ADJUST on the board) for the best picture.
  3. Set both to channel E4. Adjust S2 (marked CH4 FREQ ADJUST) for the best picture.[1][6]

The channel is chosen with the CH4/CH3 switch on the board. The leaflet tells owners to use VHF channel 3 and says a dealer can change the console to channel 4.[6][9]

5.5 MHz sound oscillator

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  1. Connect a frequency counter to point 5 of IC1.
  2. Adjust S1 (marked SOUND FREQ ADJUST) for 5.5 MHz.[1][6]

S1 sets the sound carrier in IC3; if the picture is good and there is no sound, set this before suspecting anything else.[7]

4.43 MHz colour oscillator

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  1. Connect a frequency counter to pin 17 of IC3.
  2. Adjust the trimmer C13 (2–22 pF) for 4.433618 MHz.[1][7]

The crystal KT1 is marked 4433.618 on the board photographed.[6] On the schematic the clock generator IC2 takes its input from IC3 pin 17 through C9, so this oscillator also clocks the game.[7]

Cleaning

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  • The case and controller boxes are plastic. Clean them with a damp cloth and mild detergent, keeping water away from the potentiometers and buttons.
  • The four controller connectors on the board and the jack socket BU1 are the contacts most likely to have tarnished. Clean them with contact cleaner and work the plugs in and out a few times.[7]

Behaviour that is not a fault

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  • Wipe-out (game 1) always comes up first when the console is switched on.[9]
  • Every game except wipe-out and flipper stops at 15 points. Press the reset button on the right (green) controller to set the score to 0:0.[9]
  • Pressing reset with a bat turned to the top of the screen makes that bat smaller.[9]
  • The ball speeds up after a player has returned it four times and slows again with each new ball.[9]
  • A bat held at the bottom of the screen does not serve.[9]
  • The volume is set on the television; the console has no volume control.[9]
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References

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  1. ↑ 1.0 1.1 1.2 1.3 1.4 1.5 Philips, Service Manual Odyssey 2100, G7513, CS43618, p. 1: the console drawing with its four controls; service adjustments for channels E3 and E4 (S3, S2), the 5.5 MHz oscillator (frequency counter at point 5 of IC1, adjust S1) and the 4.43 MHz oscillator (counter at IC3 pin 17, adjust C13 to 4.433618 MHz). Hosted as File:Philips Odyssey 2100 Service Manual CS43618.pdf.
  2. ↑ David Winter, Pong-Story, "Philips Odyssey 2100" (retrieved 2026-10-20): released in 1978.
  3. ↑ 3.0 3.1 3.2 3.3 José Antonio Ortigueira Amor, Retro Ordenadores Orty, "Philips Odyssey 2100 (1978)", in Spanish (retrieved 2026-10-20): the bottom case removed by turning the central screw to the left; the small board fixed to the top case; controllers attached by cable; the mini-jack adaptor socket and the adaptor rated 18.6 V 120 mA. Owner's hands-on description.
  4. ↑ José Antonio Ortigueira Amor, photograph of the underside of a Philips Odyssey 2100, 29 November 2020, on Wikimedia Commons as File:Philips Odyssey 2100 (6).jpg (CC BY 4.0): the central fixing screw. Hosted as File:Philips Odyssey 2100 underside.jpg.
  5. ↑ José Antonio Ortigueira Amor, photograph of a Philips Odyssey 2100 with the bottom case removed, 29 November 2020, on Wikimedia Commons as File:Philips Odyssey 2100 (5).jpg (CC BY 4.0). Hosted as File:Philips Odyssey 2100 opened.jpg.
  6. ↑ 6.0 6.1 6.2 6.3 6.4 6.5 José Antonio Ortigueira Amor, photograph of the main board of a Philips Odyssey 2100, 29 November 2020, on Wikimedia Commons as File:Philips Odyssey 2100 (4).jpg (CC BY 4.0): legends Q1 (PNP), X'TAL 1 (crystal marked 4433.618), L2 CH4 FREQ ADJUST, L3 CH3 FREQ ADJUST, SOUND FREQ ADJUST, the CH4/CH3 switch. Hosted as File:Philips Odyssey 2100 main board.jpg.
  7. ↑ 7.00 7.01 7.02 7.03 7.04 7.05 7.06 7.07 7.08 7.09 7.10 7.11 7.12 Philips, Service Manual Odyssey 2100, CS43618, p. 3 (sheet CS43619): schematic (drawing 13978E2) with the adaptor U1, the input A and B at BU1 marked 24 V, C1, IC4, the controller wiring R1 to R4 and L1 to L4, R23 and R24, the paddle voltages, the 5.5 MHz tank S1 and the 4.43 MHz oscillator with KT1, C13 and C9; the board layout; the parts list with 12NC numbers. Hosted as File:Philips Odyssey 2100 Service Manual CS43618.pdf.
  8. ↑ José Antonio Ortigueira Amor, photograph of the Philips Odyssey 2100 adaptor, 29 November 2020, on Wikimedia Commons as File:Philips Odyssey 2100 (2).jpg (CC BY 4.0): model FW 8009, 220 V 50 Hz 6 VA in, 18.6 V DC 120 mA out. Hosted as File:Philips Odyssey 2100 AC adaptor FW 8009.jpg.
  9. ↑ 9.00 9.01 9.02 9.03 9.04 9.05 9.06 9.07 9.08 9.09 Philips, Odyssey 2100 instruction leaflet, PDF pp. 7 and 8 (German): VHF channel 3, or channel 4 set by a dealer; game 1 first; the 15-point rule; reset and bat size; the speed-up after four returns; volume on the television; one-player play with the blue knob turned fully left; serving. Hosted as File:Philips Odyssey 2100 Instructions.pdf.


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